Scott G Trenorden

Today my daily wanderings took me across the river to the south of town, and from there I slowly (and I guess hesitantly) walked down a long path to the ’slum area’ that houses many, many poor people.

As I approached, I was overcome by a sense of intrusion; me with my big camera and good boots, while kids ran around filthy and naked, refuse floating in the river.

An old lady saw me and looked at me with a strange, saddening look. It wasn’t curiosity or uncertainty, anger or animosity… It was as though she was just completely shocked to see me standing there.

I bowed to her and turned and left without taking photos. I felt to do so would be a complete invasion, which I suppose goes against all photojournalistic purposes and intentions.

But I didn’t feel there was any photojournalistic importance in invading their space, uninvited (and this to me is the most important part), capturing their homes and their day to day lives. This is where they live, this is their private abode. I certainly wouldn’t be too happy if a complete stranger wandered through my backyard and started taking photos.

Perhaps I will return at some point, take some bottle water for them and a koala toy or two for the kids, and then see if I am invited in.

Only then would I ask to take photos.

Things are not always as they seem here. The first glance sees a very visible lack of wealth, dirtiness, desperation. But as you look closer, you notice signs of life and modernisation.

An example:

For all intents and purposes, this fellow looks to be down on his luck, hunched shouldered, in the foreground of a slum area.

As I walked around beside him I saw he was typing away on a Blackberry type device. He was intently tapping away, a look of concentration on his face; certainly not the look of hopelessness that I was expecting.
And it really showed to me the judgements we make and how often they are completely wrong.
The dirt and grit, pollution and constant harassment by the hawkers leads one to believe that this place is in a state of very slow repair; that most have little to nothing.

Of course, many don’t. But at the same time, many have mobile phones and scooters.
On a side note, I’ve been told by a couple of locals now that the tuk-tuk drivers actually make a very healthy sum of money each day, and could be wealthy men if they were wise with their money.

But they are not; they gamble incessantly, often losing all of their earnings. Drinking, too, is an issue, as are drugs and cigarettes.

They are also, apparently, very good at getting Japanese tourists into bed! But that will have to remain a rumour for now..

Anyhow, thus the extreme contradictions that exist in this country, a phenomenon which will only increase as the social and economical conditions improve.

I passed by this vacant soccer field on the way to the slums. It’s quiet during the day (while kids attend school) but well frequented after-hours.

It also looks to be a place of choice for a few too many drinks and a smoke of whatever definition, going by the junk and refuse around the place.

It saddens me that millions are poured into improving the road from town to the temples, when a few thousand dollars could be spent on resurfacing this soccer field for the kids to enjoy.

Priorities are all over the place in this city (and probably country), with a bulk of the attention focused on the temples and things associated with them, and - well it seems - not a lot of attention paid to the locals and their necessities.

I’ve seen a lot of animals about town, ones we’d class as pet breeds. Dogs and cats mainly.

Stray and ‘owned’ cats and kittens skitter about the restaurants and dogs run in small packs, boldly dodging traffic but terribly timid if approached.
Dogs can often be seen bathing in the sun in the heat of the day, not in the shade. Strange, but they seem content doing it.

This cat looked cared for and fed and was not surprisingly right outside the kitchen of a restaurant.
This is not so for some of the other felines that wander about, usually having a sleep under the chairs of tourists.

Positively, unlike another country I’ve travelled through, the pets and strays here seem cared for in that they are fed etc.
But the timidness, it’s rather haunting. That look, as though they’re expecting you to kick them in the ribs.
Then perhaps that’s what happens more often than not…
Food stalls in the Old Market.

It’s not a bad place to wander through, but if you want to by anything you’d be best to ask a local to accompany you unless you’re happy to pay 5000% of the local price…
All the ladies selling wares call out with a “Hello sir, you buuuuuuyeeee?” and honestly it’s really horrid to listen to.

It’s not surprising that they do it, as it’s a sound reminiscent of their own language, but I just feel like stopping and explaining “Look, if you say a polite “Hello sir, would you like to buy?” with a smile, you’ll probably get triple the sales every day.”

But then, at times it’s hard enough to explain what you’re looking for, let alone explain something like that!

A hazy sunset falling on Siem Reap, viewed from the rooftop of the X-Bar, the location for a soon-to-be-completed half pipe. Rumours are abound that Tony Hawk will be coming over to help break it in!

I’ll post photos of the half pipe later. It’s quite a marvel, created entirely by hand by Carlos (and whoever he can get to help out).

A true labour of love.

And to finish, here is X-Bar co-owner, Scott, and documentary maker Richard Fitoussi, discussing future tactics for promoting Richard’s new war documentary ‘Waging Peace: Canada In Afghanistan’: http://www.wagingpeacefilm.com/Home.html

It’s well worth a look.
There was a screening of the doco on the big screen at the X-Bar the previous night to much acclaim and appreciation. Rich is in Cambodia winding up a new doco, while promoting another that is due for release soon I believe.

He is a busy, busy man.

For my photographer friends, Richard started out as a high fashion photographer, and when tiring of that, self financed photo projects around the world. He has since migrated into moving media, as the money just isn’t there in still photography any more - for someone starting out, any way.

And thus sums up some recent wanderings as people I’ve met.
Today is Sunday and it’s rather hot and humid, so a day of doing very little sounds good to me.
In the coming days I will be looking into taking a day or overnight trip somewhere, and hopefully getting to work with the Trailblazer guys.

Talking about something and actually getting it organised are very, very different things in Siem Reap… a discussion I’ll save for another blog post.

Until then,
Scott.