Scott G Trenorden

This morning I (finally) arose at pre-6am, jumped in the back of a pre-organised tuk-tuk and headed for the temples.

My driver, Mr Neng, was very informative, a lovely fellow, and, well, had my entire day planned for me. Which was nice as it meant I got the seemingly essential temple-hop out of the way in one morning.

I’m guessing my initial attitude towards the day is coming off as quite negative. That’s not really the case; I just found the whole experience underwhelming.

Perhaps the light was not the best? Perhaps the thousands of tourists were too much? Maybe I got templed out all those years ago in India? Or perhaps old ruins just aren’t my thing..?

There is no doubt the temples are wonderful works of art and great feats of construction, but I just wasn’t overly inspired, if at all.

The dank, stained, rotting rocks hold nothing on the vibrant, pristine, centuries-old mammoth temples of Sikkim.

The ‘aura’ of the place doesn’t even compare to the profound spiritual intensity of Bodh Gaya, India.

They lacked the roaming, smiling monks of the stupas of Nepal.

I took some photos, of course. And I even managed to get some shots without tourists in them! But across the eight or so temples we visited I took a grand total of sixty four photographs, most of them repeats.

But at least I can now say “Yes!” to the very oft-asked question here, “Have you done the ‘temple thing’ yet?”

I met two girls yesterday who had just returned to town after day four of a seven day ticket at the temples. And here I am, having spent four hours there, and doubt I’ll be going back anytime soon.

Yes, yes, I know I should… But we’ll see.

I apologise to anyone who holds the complete opposite view to me in regards to the temples here; I recognise and respect that people will find them riveting, but ask in just the same way that you respect my observations and opinions.

Today also marked the first day I’ve ridden in a tuk-tuk since the motorbike ride from the airport, four days ago; which, when I think about all the ground I’ve covered and things I’ve seen since I arrived, means I’ve done a hell of a lot of walking.

My knees aren’t happy with me at all, and this afternoon is ‘rest and catch up on the blog’ afternoon.

But I am still feeling very healthy, alive, and energetic.
There’s a war documentary being played on the big screen (it’s BIG) at the X-Bar tonight, so will be a good chance to mingle (photographer from the National Geographic is in town, as well as a few artists and journos).

Which leads on to the ‘terrible tourists’.
Let me straight away say to any of the people I’ve met here who’ve read my blog and may read it again, this next part is very obviously not directed at you!
In fact, I’ve shared this view in conversations with a few people now, and most have agreed with me, to whatever extent.

The observation? Tourists here in Siem Reap, on a whole, are unfriendly to the point of being cold.

Actually let me rephrase that with “Western tourists”.

Of course, I’ve met some very lovely people here, shared dinner, drinks, conversations etc. I’m more referring to the person you pass in the street, or sit next to in the restaurant for lunch.

Most smiles and nods are not returned, if not reciprocated with an off-hand glance.

At first I thought it was just me and my scruffy looking ways, but a few people have confirmed the same observation now.

And even more strangely, each one to a person has agreed that this is the only town/city they’ve experienced this.

It’s a strange phenomenon, and I’m really not sure what the impetuous for it us.

Luckily, though, there are also plenty of people happy to say “G’day” and have a chat, or a meal.

Oh, and I say “Westerners” because the Asia-based peoples are absolutely joyous. I’ve had several conversations with Japanese tourists, some of which can hardly speak English, as well as Koreans, Chinese, Indians.

Those silly arrogant Western types!

Oh.. and yeah, there are a lot of Aussies here. A lot. At times it seems like 50% of the tourists are Aussies.

Which is not such a bad thing at times I guess.

Oh, which leads me to this last photo.

Now I know a few people are going to find this a horrid display, or sacrilegious, or just plain bad taste, but I found it hilarious:

This morning, during my wanderings through Angkor Wat, I came across four people sitting on the steps of one of the stupas, watching the sun coming up, each enjoying a can of beer.

And yup, sure enough, two of them were Aussies. The others a Dutchman and an Estonianwoman.

Somehow it seemed so natural, like what we would do if these temples existed in our own country. There was no aggro, no destruction, just a quite beer as the sun rose.

So I offered to take their photo (the photo is exactly how I found them) and then passed on my card.

And thus, Mr Dutchman, if you see this make sure to mail me so I can send you a copy.

I’ll leave it at that for today.

My apologies for the rather negative blog post, but it’s purely observations. I’m having a great time, am in a very positive frame of mind, have met some absolutely lovely people here, (to Jules) have enjoyed a few beers and great convo’s with Carlo (a stellar bloke) and am really looking forward to where I go next and what unfolds. Especially Laos.

I’d also like to thank people for the emails checking up on me (esp one in particular, you know who you are <3 hah). Sorry if it takes me a while to get back to you all… I’m not the best with emails at the best of times, so hopefully this blog will suffice for now.

Tomorrow I’ll try post something more positive for you all!

Love youz.

Scott.